Emirhan

Emirhan stands on Zargaron Street, northwest of Registan Square and roughly 200 m from it as the crow flies. It has two floors of indoor dining and an open rooftop terrace that looks out over the Registan madrasas — the main reason many people come here for dinner after a day at the monuments.

The menu is rooted in Uzbek cooking, with Russian and broader European dishes, Italian among them, mixed in. Regulars recommend the aubergine salads and rolls and the lamb cutlets, while desserts include cheesecake, mille-feuille and baklava. To drink there is tea and coffee, lemonades, wine and draught beer, and vegetarians are reasonably well catered for.

Musicians play in the evenings. The rooftop is also a favourite place to watch the sunset, so in peak season its tables go quickly and it pays to reserve one in advance.