Samarqand Osh Markazi No. 1

This plov centre sits on Ibn Sino Street, about 3 km north of the Registan beyond the Afrasiyab hills, on the airport side of town. Locals rate it highly, and guides and taxi drivers bring a steady stream of visitors, so at lunchtime every hall — the downstairs one included — tends to be full.

There is no menu. Once you sit down, a waiter arrives with a large tray of starters — suzma and yoghurt with herbs, ayran, tomato and cucumber salad — and you take what you like. Then come bread, tea and the main event: Samarkand plov, cooked in layers in huge kazans and served with lamb or beef, yellow carrots, raisins and chickpeas. Portions are generous; half a portion is enough for most people.

Plov goes out from 11:00 and can sell out by mid-afternoon; after the 15:00–17:00 break an evening batch is served. Reviewers mention parvarda, the local pulled-sugar sweets, arriving with the tea.