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Jewellery making (zargarlik)

Craft · Nationwide

Jewellery making (zargarlik)

The craft of gold and silver jewellery — tillaqosh diadems, earrings, bracelets and tumar amulets; the old centres are Karshi, Kokand, Samarkand, Bukhara and Khiva.

Nationwide1 min read
Photo: Marat Nadjibaev · CC BY-SA 4.0 · Wikimedia Commons

Techniques and pieces

Zargarlik (from the Persian zargar, ‘one who works gold’) is the making of jewellery in gold, silver, copper and other metals. Jewellers cast, forge, gild and silver-plate, engrave and emboss, use granulation, stamping and openwork, and set turquoise, pearls, coral and other stones. Women’s jewellery is especially rich: large earrings and rings, multi-strand necklaces and the tillaqosh, ‘golden eyebrows’, a jewelled diadem still worn with national dress.

After the spread of Islam gold became mainly a women’s metal while men preferred silver. Silver also produced the boldest pieces, blackened and gilded, and Bukhara’s jewellers were famous for silver set with bright enamel.

Centres today

The historic centres of handmade jewellery are Karshi, Kokand, Samarkand, Bukhara and Khiva; Tashkent has become a major hub too, hosting an International Jewellery Fair every two years since 2023. Uzbekistan is one of the world’s big gold producers, and its largest deposit, Muruntau, lies in Navoiy Region. Bukhara’s Toqi Zargaron, the jewellers’ dome, has been a jewellery market for centuries; look for traditional-style silver there and in Khiva’s shops.

Sources (3)
  1. uz.wikipedia.org
  2. advantour.com
  3. advantour.com

Photos

Бухара, фестиваль, Узбекистан
Photo: Marat Nadjibaev · CC BY-SA 4.0 · Wikimedia Commons
Бухара, фестиваль, Узбекистан
Photo: Marat Nadjibaev · CC BY-SA 4.0 · Wikimedia Commons
Бухара, фестиваль, Узбекистан
Photo: Marat Nadjibaev · CC BY-SA 4.0 · Wikimedia Commons
Necklace and earrings. Uzbek jewellery antique
Photo: Miss Kamola · CC0 · Wikimedia Commons

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