Toqi Sarrafon

History

The dome was built under the Shaybanid Ubaydullah Khan on the bank of the Shakhrud canal. Sarrafon means 'money-changers' in Persian: merchants arriving from the Khiva and Kokand khanates, Iran, Afghanistan, India, Russia and beyond changed currency here. It is the southernmost and oldest of the trading domes.

Until the mid-20th century it remained one of Bukhara's main covered bazaars, selling everyday goods; today its stalls offer souvenirs, carpets, ceramics and jewellery.

Around the dome

The dome stands about 100 m south-west of Lyab-i Hauz beside the Shakhrud canal, most of which now runs underground. A small mosque of the same name occupies part of the building, and the Sarrafon bathhouse is next door.

North of here lie the Magok-i-Attari Mosque and Toqi Telpak Furushon, east lies Lyab-i Hauz — which is why many walks through the old town start right here.

Did you know?

The Shakhrud was medieval Bukhara's main canal, drawing water from the Zarafshan and filling the city's pools. The dome was deliberately built beside it, since market rows and workshops lined the water. Much of the canal was put underground in the 20th century.