Nadir Divan-Begi Madrasa

History

Nadir Divan-Begi, vizier to the Ashtarkhanid ruler Imam Quli Khan (1611–1642), built it as a caravanserai; it was converted into a madrasa later. Legend has it that at the opening ceremony the khan praised it as a fine madrasa, leaving his vizier little choice but to hand it over as a religious school.

The plan betrays its original purpose: there is no lecture hall, only cells around the courtyard, and a narrow entrance leads straight into the yard. Across the pool it forms a kosh with the Nadir Divan-Begi Khanqah.

The portal mosaic

Above the portal arch a mosaic shows a sun with a human face, two simurghs flying towards it and white deer in their talons. Living creatures are rare in Islamic architecture, and alongside Samarkand's Sher-Dor Madrasa this is one of the best-known examples in Uzbekistan. Traces of mosaic also survive on the side facades.

Today the courtyard is lined with craft shops, and in the evenings it often hosts dinners with folklore and traditional dress shows.

Did you know?

Divan-begi was one of the highest offices of the Bukhara Khanate, in charge of the state chancery and finances. By building the pool, the khanqah and this madrasa on Lyab-i Hauz, Nadir Divan-Begi made his name as a generous patron.